This post was last updated on August 12, 2021 by Preethi Sukumaran
Susan a Damage Repair Shampoo for chemically damaged, over processed hair that actually works?
We’ve all been there. Flush with a salary cheque, and dreams of transforming the way you look, you find your way into the high end salon. Every single salon “artiste” there is sports a sharp cut and a heady mix of colours on the hair. Emboldened by this, you throw caution to the winds and go all out. a hair cut and a completely new style, recommended by the “Salon director” himself and a fresh new head of hair emerges. It looks great on day 1. A week later, after your first wash, the disaster strikes.
A few months later, to your horror, you notice that your hair is dull, rough, limp a day after shampooing, and is JUST NOT GROWING! Your salon artist now says: “ Hair growth these days is weak due to pesticides / pollution / toxins in the air. Try our new salon conditioning spa / remineralising service / hair vitamin makeover treatment”.
Several visits, hair treatments and several thousand Rupees later, you realise NOTHING is working – your hair is damaged.
If the above account sounded eerily personal, it is because I too was there.
Flush with cash and all the self confidence of a 25 year old, I started on my 5 year hair destruction journey. It started innocuously with a perm, then a hair cut. Then several hair colours. Then hair straightening. And before you knew it, I was 29, with oily limp hair, a decided case of hair receding and thinning and abysmal or no hair growth.
It took me many years of concerted effort and working on my hair to see results. You can read my hair repair journey in this earlier post. So, when we created a Hair care “map” at Krya, a range for Chemically Damaged hair was very high on my priority list.
Why is chemically damaged & over processed hair so fragile?
We write constantly about the perils of chemical damage . Chemical hair colouring is a very easy way to damage hair. Unfortunately, many of the salon treatments sold to “repair” this damage are even more damaging. Our earlier posts will give you information on exactly how hair is damaged when we resort to synthetic hair colouring and synthetic treatments which are sold to us to “improve” our hair.
Characteristics of Chemically damaged and over processed hair:
Chemically damaged hair is very fragile and difficult to handle. When hair is damaged due to synthetic colouring, the cuticle loses its natural elasticity. Therefore it is unable to close and seal off hair from becoming too porous.
As a result, chemically damaged hair quickly absorbs water and salts from washing. This dullens the appearance of hair. It also makes hair prone to breakage, especially at points where salts have entered the hair shaft.
To control hair’s fizziness and brittle texture, salon stylists advise using special conditioners and hair serums . This is suggested to soften hair texture externally and make it easy to work with. However, these products clog the scalp, and dullen the functioning of hair follicles. As a result, we see slow and delayed hair growth.
Chemical treatments also aggravate the production of sebum in hair. and aggravate either Pitta or Vata dosha or both in hair.
Lightening your hair colour several shades from your natural colour aggravates Pitta dosha severely in the scalp. So the scalp becomes excessively oily and hair starts to thin much faster than usual. Any effort to cleanse scalp aggressively only produces more & more sebum, making hair oilier.
When the texture of hair is altered (straightening / perming), there is a build up in Vata Aggravation along with Pitta aggravation. So hair becomes dry, straw like, rough and unmanageable. Split ends severely increase, and hair has a dull, greyish sheen with a dry, rough texture. Combing / brushing this hair is an ordeal. It tangles very fast and hair breaks if it is pulled even slightly or combed.
Challenges when formulating a truly natural Damage Repair Shampoo :
We spoke last week about some of our challenges in formulating truly natural products. Formulating a truly natural Damage Repair shampoo for chemically damaged and over-processed hair, is an extremely challenging task.
Some of the questions / issues we ponder when working on this challenge are:
- How can we ensure the shampoo cleans the scalp thoroughly, yet ensure that Pitta / Vata is not aggravated?
- How can we formulate our herbal powder shampoos in such a way that the herb particles do not irritate already frizzy hair?
- Can we deep cleanse scalp and ensure we are able to unclog old debris and accumulated silicones?
- How can we formulate our shampoo so that hair is left reasonably manageable after a wash, without loading our natural hairwash with synthetics like silicones?
The Krya Truly Natural Damage Repair Shampoo powder:
After many years of research, we launched the Krya Damage Repair hair system in early 2017. The Krya Damage Repair hair system contains the Krya Damage Repair hair oil . The system also contains the Krya Damage Repair hair mask , a once a week treatment for over processed hair. And finally, the system contains the Krya truly natural Damage Repair Shampoo powder.
Here are some key differences in the way we formulate this 100% natural, Damage Repair Shampoo powder:
Krya Damage Repair Shampoo Powder: Made 100% from whole Ayurvedic herbs and grains – synthetics free
We use 23 gentle, hair nourishing Ayurvedic herbs to formulate the Krya Damage Repair Shampoo powder. We create this product ONLY from whole Ayurvedic herbs, grains , lentils and clays.
By using a 100% natural formulation, we ensure the scalp is not irritated, coated with toxins, or stripped dry of sebum.
The benefits of using a 100% whole herb formulation are manifold. Specifically for chemically damaged hair, using this product will not stimulate excessive oil production, nor will it dry out and tax hair. So , in time, hair’s sebum production becomes better balanced. Hair is less limp and oily. The scalp is cleaner, more clarified and balanced .
Krya Damage Repair Shampoo Powder: Carefully chosen set of Plant surfactants: for safe, gentle cleansing
Many with chemically damaged hair think that using a sulphate free shampoo would help hair. Many of us also believe that all Sulphate free shampoos are completely natural and non toxic.
Nothing could be further from the truth!
Almost all synthetic shampoos used some form of synthetic surfacant. Sulphate based surfactants like SLs and SLeS have now been in use for 50+ years. With time, research indicates that these surfactants are pernicious, protein denaturing and can cause rips and tears in skin, scalp, in the gums etc. This creates gaps in the body which can be used by invasive microorganisms or synthetic chemicals.
HOWEVER: in the race to replace Sulphates and create “sulphate free” products, companies are using other kinds of problem synthetic surfactants.
Cocamidopropyl Betaine (CAPB) is a synthetic surfactant found in many sulphate free cleansers. It is marketed as “completely natural” and “non toxic” and is bought by those who believe it will help chemically damaged, dry hair.
CAPB is made from a chemical process which combines coconut oil with Dimethylaminopropylamine to create an “amphoteric surfactant”. An amphoteric surfactant is a cunning chemical compound which can be used in both acidic and alkaline mediums . So depending upon the PH, Cocamidopropyl Betaine can double up as a lathering agent in shampoo, or act as a thickener in conditioners.
Despite being promoted as “wholly natural”, CAPB is just another synthetic surfactant. It is linked to allergic dermatitis, eczema and other allergic skin conditions.
Most importantly, CAPB will irritate chemically damaged hair. It will strip scalp dry and excessively stimulate oil production. It will also further block and clog the scalp.
Krya’s special cleansing base in all natural shampoo powders
Krya, uses a unique cleansing base in all of our natural Shampoo powders. We use whole plant surfactants like Desert Date (Balanites aegyptica), Shikakai (Acacia concinna) and Sopberry (Sapnidus trifiliatus). In addition, we also use whole grains like Whole Mung bean (Vigna radiata), Whole black gram (Vigna mungo) . We also use healing clays . This combination of whole plant surfactants, whole lentils and healing clays creates our very gentle, cleansing base in our Damage Repair Shampoo powder.
This whole natural cleaning base is mildly acidic . This ensures that the sebum production in your scalp is not taxed. It also means that the entire mixture works WITH and not against the scalp’s natural system.
This formulation makes the Damage Repair Shampoo powder SUPER MILD, mildly acidic and extremely gentle on the scalp.
Krya Damage Repair Shampoo powder: Gentle plant conditioners that improve hair quality and manageability:
Synthetic hair fixers, serums and conditioners offer us temporary highs. On the day of use, they leave hair feeling soft, shiny, manageable and tamed. BUT: the persistent use of these silicones forms a temporary cement like coating on hair and scalp.
This clogs the fine pores in the scalp slowing down hair growth. Also, as hair is only temporarily fixed, it is back to its original unmanageable condition after your next wash. As no steps have been taken to repair hair, the passage of time tends to worsen its health and appearance.
Our ayurvedic herbs are more than just natural conditioners for hair. Every hair texture improving herb we use also revitalises & improves scalp health.
For example, Arjuna leaf and Fenugreek seed both work to improve fungal dandruff, scalp itchiness and flaking. . Hibiscus leaf and flower, detoxify and clarify the scalp and promote healthy hair growth as well. Therefore, as you use the Krya Damage Repair Shampoo powder, there is a steady improvement in hair manageability and hair health .
Herbs chosen specially for their Rasayana and Dosha balancing properties: Krya Damage Repair Shampoo powder
Chemically damaged hair has very slow hair growth and poor hair quality of new hair. The new growing hair is fine, thin and weak rooted like baby hair.
Ayurveda advises using Rasayana herbs here to help improve the quality of new , sprouting hair. To work holistically, these Rasayana herbs should be used across oils, lepas and shampoos. This helps build up their bio availability to the body. When these Rasayana herbs are used in our Shampoo formulation, they help unclog and detoxify the scalp, promoting conditions for better hair growth.
Some of the Rasayana herbs we use in the Krya Damage Repair Shampoo powder formulation are Amla, Bhringaraj, Punarnava, Mulethi & Bala.
In addition, to balance aggravated Pitta and Vata dosha, we use Brahmi, Neem flower, and Neem leaf.
Scalp clarifying and promoting micro-circulation in the scalp for better oxygenation, blood supply and hair growth:
Chemically damaged hair also has a unique problem. The scalp and hair is usually coated with salts and other minerals as the cuticular structure is damaged . This causes a dull, greyish scum like coating on the hair and scalp surface. This also prevents healthy hair growth and weakens hair strands terribly leading to breakage and split ends.
To work on this, we use scalp clarifying and micro-circulation promoting herbs like Rosemary, Manjishtha, Lemongrass and Triphala. These herbs encourage the removal of heavy salts from the scalp. They also improve blood circulation in the scalp and promote healthier hair growth.
Please note: simply using the Krya Damage repair Shampoo will not help completely improve chemically damaged hair. For holistic damage repair, you must use both the Krya damage repair hair oil and the Krya Damage repair hair revitalising mask, in addition.
How to use the Krya Natural Damage Repair Shampoo powder :
Chemically damaged , over processed hair should be treated extremely gently.
As the scalp needs clarifying and detoxifying, it is unable to absorb too much oil at first. But, this kind of hair REALLY needs frequent oiling to regain its health.
So, please oil the hair with the Krya Damage repair hair oil, in tiny doses, spread through the week. Massage the scalp gently with 4 – 5 drops of the oil on the scalp alone. Do this 3 – 4 times a week.
Hair Washing :
As hair is porous, and greatly damaged, chemically damaged, over processed hair should be washed only once a week.
On the day of the hair wash, oil hair using the Krya Damage repair hair oil. The oil must completely coat the hair strands with oil. Do this atleast 1 hour before wash. This oiling helps seal the hair externally and prevents any further salts from penetrating the hair.
After an hour, wash the hair with the Krya Damage Repair Shampoo powder.
Make the Hairwash into a slightly drippy, pancake batter like paste, using cool water. In order to be gentle on the hair, we advise applying the Shampoo powder like a hair mask / pack / Lepa. Section the hair using a well made comb, and apply the paste gently all over scalp and hair.
Ensure you do not tangle hair during this application – so please comb and detangle hair before applying the Shampoo paste. If hair is reasonably strong, the portion applied to the scalp can be massaged using circular motions. If the hair is very weak, skip this step.
Put on a shower cap on your hair after applying the Shampoo paste and leave it on for about 20 – 30 minutes. Then rinse off gently using cool water. The shower cap is to ensure that the Shampoo paste does not dry out on hair. This is critical.
Use the Damage Repair mask once a week :
Once a week, apply the Krya Damage Repair Hair Mask / Lepa to treat chemically damaged hair. We will cover the properties of this product and how it should be used, in greater detail in a separate post.
These 3 products are ALL chemically damaged hair needs. You should not use anything else on your hair. NO synthetic conditioners / serums / hair sprays, etc should be used on chemically damaged hair . Using such products will simply undo the good work you are doing for your hair.
To Sum up:
This post was an introductory post. We explained why choosing the right products is CRITICAL for chemically damaged, over processed hair. Hair that is this badly damaged cannot afford any further assault with synthetic chemicals. Therefore stop using synthetic shampoos and switch to a truly natural, Damage Repair Shampoo for this hair.
At Krya, many of our consumers have seen extremely good results with the consistent use of the Krya Damage Repair hair products. With dedicated effort and regular use, they have been able to reverse the signs of chemical damage. Hair growth has gradually normalised and hair quality has also significantly improved.
Along with these products, following a hair nourishing and dhatu building , healthy balanced diet also helps greatly. If you too have chemically damaged hair, and would like to try this system, please explore the products here. If you have any doubts / questions, please email us or call us (075500-89090).