How to revamp Chemically Damaged hair – choosing the right Damage Repair Shampoo

Krya damage repair shampoo powder for chemically damaged hair
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Reading Time: 10 minutes

Desperately Seeking Susan a Damage Repair Shampoo for chemically damaged, over processed hair that actually works?

We’ve all been there. Flush with a salary cheque, and dreams of transforming the way you look, you find your way into the high end salon. Every single salon “artiste” there is sports a sharp cut and a heady mix of colours on the hair. Emboldened by this, you throw caution to the winds and go all out. a hair cut and a completely new style, recommended by the “Salon director” himself and a fresh new head of hair emerges. It looks great on day 1. A week later, after your first wash, the disaster strikes.

 

Synthetic hair colours look great only for a short time

A few months later, to your horror, you notice that your hair is dull, rough, limp a day after shampooing, and is JUST NOT GROWING! Your salon artist now says: “ Hair growth these days is weak due to pesticides / pollution / toxins in the air. Try our new salon conditioning spa / remineralising service / hair vitamin makeover treatment”.

Several visits, hair treatments and several thousand Rupees later, you realise NOTHING is working – your hair is damaged.

Shortly after colouring and synthetic treatments, hair is now damaged

If the above account sounded eerily personal, it is because I too was there.

Flush with cash and all the self confidence of a 25 year old, I started on my 5 year hair destruction journey. It started innocuously with a perm, then a hair cut. Then several hair colours. Then hair straightening. And before you knew it, I was 29, with oily limp hair, a decided case of hair receding and thinning and abysmal or no hair growth.

It took me many years of concerted effort and working on my hair to see results. You can read my hair repair journey in this earlier post.  So, when we created a Hair care “map” at Krya, a range for Chemically Damaged hair was very high on my priority list.

Why is chemically damaged & over processed hair so fragile?

We write constantly about the perils of chemical damage . Chemical hair colouring is a very easy way to damage hair. Unfortunately, many of the salon treatments sold to “repair” this damage are even more damaging. Our earlier posts will give you information on exactly how hair is damaged when we resort to synthetic hair colouring and synthetic treatments which are sold to us to “improve” our hair.

 

Characteristics of Chemically damaged and over processed hair:

Chemically damaged hair is very fragile and difficult to handle. When hair is damaged due to synthetic colouring, the cuticle loses its natural elasticity. Therefore it is unable to close and seal off hair from becoming too porous.

chemically damaged hair is fragile

As a result, chemically damaged hair quickly absorbs water and salts from washing. This dullens the appearance of hair. It also makes hair prone to breakage, especially at points where salts have entered the hair shaft.

To control hair’s fizziness and brittle texture, salon stylists advise using special conditioners and hair serums . This is suggested to soften hair texture externally and make it easy to work with. However, these products clog the scalp, and dullen the functioning of hair follicles. As a result, we see slow and delayed hair growth.

synthetic conditioners, masques, spa treatments and serums further clog the scalp, preventing good hair growth

Chemical treatments also aggravate the production of sebum in hair. and aggravate either Pitta or Vata dosha or both in hair.

Lightening your hair colour several shades from your natural colour  aggravates Pitta dosha severely in the scalp. So the scalp becomes excessively oily and hair starts to thin much faster than usual. Any effort to cleanse scalp aggressively only produces more & more sebum, making hair oilier.

When the texture of hair is altered (straightening / perming), there is a build up in Vata Aggravation along with Pitta aggravation. So hair becomes dry, straw like, rough and unmanageable. Split ends severely increase, and hair has a dull, greyish sheen with a dry, rough texture. Combing / brushing this hair is an ordeal. It tangles very fast and hair breaks if it is pulled even slightly or combed.

Hair texture alterations aggravate vata and pitta dosha making hair rough, dry & brittle

 

Challenges when formulating a truly natural Damage Repair Shampoo :

We spoke last week about some of our challenges in formulating truly natural products. Formulating a truly natural Damage Repair shampoo for chemically damaged and over-processed hair, is an extremely challenging task.

Some of the questions / issues we ponder when working on this challenge are:

  • How can we ensure the shampoo cleans the scalp thoroughly, yet ensure that Pitta / Vata is not aggravated?
  • How can we formulate our herbal powder shampoos in such a way that the herb particles do not irritate already frizzy hair?
  • Can we deep cleanse scalp and ensure we are able to unclog old debris and accumulated silicones?
  • How can we formulate our shampoo so that hair is left reasonably manageable after a wash, without loading our natural hairwash with synthetics like silicones?

The Krya Truly Natural Damage Repair Shampoo powder:

After many years of research, we launched the Krya Damage Repair hair system in early 2017. The Krya Damage Repair hair system contains the Krya Damage Repair hair oil . The system also contains the Krya Damage Repair hair mask , a once a week treatment for over processed hair. And finally, the system contains the Krya truly natural Damage Repair Shampoo powder.

krya damage repair hair revitalising system

Here are some key differences in the way we formulate this 100% natural, Damage Repair Shampoo powder:

Krya Damage Repair Shampoo Powder: Made 100% from whole Ayurvedic herbs and grains – synthetics free

We use 23 gentle, hair nourishing Ayurvedic herbs to formulate the Krya Damage Repair Shampoo powder. We create this product ONLY from whole Ayurvedic herbs, grains , lentils and clays.

By using a 100% natural formulation, we ensure the scalp is not irritated, coated with toxins, or stripped dry of sebum.

krya damage repair shampoo powder - truly toxin free & 100% natural

The benefits of using a 100% whole herb formulation are manifold. Specifically for chemically damaged hair, using this product will not stimulate excessive oil production, nor will it dry out and tax hair. So , in time, hair’s sebum production becomes better balanced. Hair is less limp and oily. The scalp is  cleaner, more clarified and balanced .

Krya Damage Repair Shampoo Powder: Carefully chosen set of Plant surfactants: for safe, gentle cleansing

Many with chemically damaged hair think that using a sulphate free shampoo would help hair. Many of us also believe that all Sulphate free shampoos are completely natural and non toxic.

Nothing could be further from the truth!

Almost all synthetic shampoos used some form of synthetic surfacant. Sulphate based surfactants like SLs and SLeS have now been in use for 50+ years. With time, research indicates that these surfactants are pernicious, protein denaturing and can cause rips and tears in skin, scalp, in the gums etc. This creates gaps in the body which can be used by invasive microorganisms or synthetic chemicals.

HOWEVER: in the race to replace Sulphates and create “sulphate free” products, companies are using other kinds of problem synthetic surfactants.

Cocamidopropyl Betaine (CAPB) is a synthetic surfactant found in many sulphate free cleansers. It is marketed as “completely natural” and “non toxic” and is bought by those who believe it will help chemically damaged, dry hair.

CAPB is made from a chemical process which combines coconut oil with Dimethylaminopropylamine to create  an “amphoteric surfactant”. An amphoteric surfactant is a cunning chemical compound which can be used in both acidic and alkaline mediums . So depending upon the PH, Cocamidopropyl Betaine can double up as a lathering agent in shampoo, or act as a thickener in conditioners.

Despite being promoted as “wholly natural”, CAPB is just another synthetic surfactant. It is linked to allergic dermatitis, eczema and other allergic skin conditions.

Other synthetic surfactants like CAPB masquerade as natural cleansers - used in so called natural or organic shampoos

Most importantly, CAPB will irritate chemically damaged hair. It will strip scalp dry and excessively stimulate oil production. It will also further block and clog the scalp.

 

Krya’s special cleansing base in all natural shampoo powders

Krya, uses a unique cleansing base in all of our natural Shampoo powders. We use whole plant surfactants like Desert Date (Balanites aegyptica), Shikakai (Acacia concinna) and Sopberry (Sapnidus trifiliatus). In addition, we also use whole grains like Whole Mung bean (Vigna radiata), Whole black gram (Vigna mungo) . We also use healing clays . This combination of whole plant surfactants, whole lentils and healing clays creates our very gentle, cleansing base in our Damage Repair Shampoo powder.

This whole natural cleaning base is mildly acidic . This ensures that the sebum production in your scalp is not taxed. It also means that the entire mixture works WITH and not against the scalp’s natural system.

Krya uses a 100% natural, gentle cleansing base that uses whole herbs, lentils & healing clays

This formulation makes the Damage Repair Shampoo powder SUPER MILD, mildly acidic and extremely gentle on the scalp.

Krya Damage Repair Shampoo powder: Gentle plant conditioners that improve hair quality and manageability:

Synthetic hair fixers, serums and conditioners offer us temporary highs. On the day of use, they leave hair feeling soft, shiny, manageable and tamed. BUT: the persistent use of these silicones forms a temporary cement like coating on hair and scalp.

This clogs the fine pores in the scalp slowing down hair growth. Also, as hair is only temporarily fixed, it is back to its original unmanageable condition after your next wash. As no steps have been taken to repair hair, the passage of time tends to worsen its health and appearance.

Our ayurvedic herbs are more than just natural conditioners for hair. Every hair texture improving herb we use also revitalises & improves scalp health.

krya whole herb conditioners improve hair texture, manageability and stimulate hair growth

For example, Arjuna leaf and Fenugreek seed both work to improve fungal dandruff, scalp itchiness and flaking. . Hibiscus leaf and flower, detoxify and clarify the scalp and promote healthy hair growth as well. Therefore, as you use the Krya Damage Repair Shampoo powder, there is a steady improvement in hair manageability and hair health .

 Herbs chosen specially for their Rasayana and Dosha balancing properties: Krya Damage Repair Shampoo powder

Chemically damaged hair has very slow hair growth and poor hair quality of new hair. The new growing hair is fine, thin and weak rooted like baby hair.

Ayurveda advises using Rasayana herbs here to help improve the quality of new , sprouting hair. To work holistically, these Rasayana herbs should be used across oils, lepas and shampoos. This helps build up their bio availability to the body. When these  Rasayana herbs are used in our Shampoo formulation, they help unclog and detoxify the scalp, promoting conditions for better hair growth.

Some of the Rasayana herbs we use in the Krya Damage Repair Shampoo powder formulation are Amla, Bhringaraj, Punarnava, Mulethi & Bala.

Rasayana herbs are used in the damage repair shampoo to revitalise and improve hair quality

 

In addition, to balance aggravated Pitta and Vata dosha, we use Brahmi, Neem flower, and Neem leaf.

Scalp clarifying and promoting micro-circulation in the scalp for better oxygenation, blood supply and hair growth:

Chemically damaged hair also has a unique problem. The scalp and hair is usually coated with salts and other minerals as the cuticular structure is damaged . This causes a dull, greyish scum like coating on the hair and scalp surface. This also prevents healthy hair growth and weakens hair strands terribly leading to breakage and split ends.

To work on this, we use scalp clarifying and micro-circulation promoting herbs like Rosemary, Manjishtha, Lemongrass and Triphala. These herbs encourage the removal of heavy salts from the scalp. They also improve blood circulation in the scalp and promote healthier hair growth.

Krya also uses scalp clarifing & micro circulation enhancing herbs like Rosemary, Lemongrass, Manjishta, etc

 

Please note: simply using the Krya Damage repair Shampoo will not help completely improve chemically damaged hair. For holistic damage repair, you must use both the Krya damage repair hair oil and the Krya Damage repair hair revitalising mask, in addition.

 

How to use the Krya Natural Damage Repair Shampoo powder :

Chemically damaged , over processed hair should be treated extremely gently.

Scalp oiling: 

As the scalp needs clarifying and detoxifying, it is unable to absorb too much oil at first. But, this kind of hair REALLY needs frequent oiling to regain its health.

So, please oil the hair with the Krya Damage repair hair oil, in tiny doses, spread through the week. Massage the scalp gently with 4 – 5 drops of the oil on the scalp alone. Do this 3 – 4 times a week.

 

Krya Damage repair hair oil must be used 4 - 5 times a week to improve scalp health & encourage damage repair

Hair Washing : 

As hair is porous, and greatly damaged, chemically damaged, over processed hair should be washed only once a week.

On the day of the hair wash, oil hair using the Krya Damage repair hair oil. The oil must completely coat the hair strands with oil. Do this atleast 1 hour before wash. This oiling helps seal the hair externally and prevents any further salts from penetrating the hair.

After an hour, wash the hair with the Krya Damage Repair Shampoo powder.

Make the Hairwash into a slightly drippy, pancake batter like paste, using cool water. In order to be gentle on the hair, we advise applying the Shampoo powder like a hair mask / pack / Lepa. Section the hair using a well made comb, and apply the paste gently all over scalp and hair.

Ensure you do not tangle hair during this application – so please comb and detangle hair before applying the Shampoo paste. If hair is reasonably strong, the portion applied to the scalp can be massaged using circular motions. If the hair is very weak, skip this step.

Put on a shower cap on your hair after applying the Shampoo paste and leave it on for about 20 – 30 minutes. Then rinse off gently using cool water. The shower cap is to ensure that the Shampoo paste does not dry out on hair. This is critical.

Use the Damage Repair mask once a week : 

Once a week, apply the Krya Damage Repair Hair Mask / Lepa to treat chemically damaged hair. We will cover the properties of this product and how it should be used, in greater detail in a separate post.

 

Apply the krya damage repair hair mask once a week

These 3 products are ALL chemically damaged hair needs. You should not use anything else on your hair. NO synthetic conditioners / serums / hair sprays, etc should be used on chemically damaged hair . Using such products will simply undo the good work you are doing for your hair.

 

To Sum up:

This post was an introductory post. We explained why choosing the right products is CRITICAL for chemically damaged, over processed hair. Hair that is this badly damaged cannot afford any further assault with synthetic chemicals. Therefore stop using synthetic shampoos and switch to a truly natural, Damage Repair Shampoo for this hair.

At Krya, many of our consumers have seen extremely good results with the consistent use of the Krya Damage Repair hair products. With dedicated effort and regular use, they have been able to reverse the signs of chemical damage. Hair growth has gradually normalised and hair quality has also significantly improved.

Along with these products, following a hair nourishing and dhatu building , healthy balanced diet also helps greatly. If you too have chemically damaged hair, and would like to try this system, please explore the products here. If you have any doubts / questions, please email us or call us (075500-89090).

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Revitalise & Heal chemically damaged hair with Ayurveda: the Krya Damage Repair Hair revitalising Hair Oil

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Reading Time: 6 minutes

Frequent chemical treatments tend to damage hair. Stylists and trichologists tell us that we can only cover up the damage, but cannot heal hair. But, when we understand the “hetu” or cause of damage, and treat it holistically, we can solve even the unsolvable. This post will examine how we can heal chemically damaged hair through the wisdom of Ayurveda.

Imbalances seen in Chemically damaged hair

Chemically treated hair usually exhibits a few characteristic imbalances. Pitta and vata dosha of the hair system is aggravated and imbalanced. This explains the use of adjectives like “fried”, “dry like straw”, “Rough and lifeless”, “texture like hay” to describe chemically damaged hair.

Chemially damaged hair has imbalanced vata and pitta dosha. Find out how you can heal chemically damaged hair.

Pitta imbalance in chemically damaged hair is caused by the use of high heat and heat aggravating chemicals. This dries out the hair strands and damages the sebum balance in the scalp. So hair thins faster, greys prematurely and the scalp is dry, itchy and irritable.

Vata imbalance is also high in chemically damaged hair . This due to the drying nature of heat and chemical treatment. This in turns slows down sebum production in the scalp and cuts off supply of nutrients to the hair follicle. This results in dry, parched scalp and coarse, rough, straw-like hair strands.

Heat & chemical treatments imbalance sebum i hair making it dry, coarse and lifeless. Find out how you can heal chemically damaged hair.

Scalp damage and change in hair texture and growth patterns

Chemical damaged hair goes with a damaged and toxin filled scalp. The pitta and vata imbalance in the hair results in slower hair growth. The scalp is also unable to support the growth of long hair duet to a weak supply of nutrients. The new hair that grows is usually much thinner, weaker, much more liable to breaking and usually much shorter than the original length.

Chemically damaged hair looks much older and ages rapidly. Find out how you can heal chemically damaged hair.

The Krya Damage repair hair oil – an ayurvedic oil that heals chemically damaged hair

 

Krya Damage reapru hair system revitalizes and heals chemically damaged hair.

 

Ayurveda lists keshya (herbs meant for hair care) into 3 categories: Keshya “sanjana” (to help hair originate or form), Keshya “vardhana” (to promote hair length and growth), and Keshya ranjana (to restore natural hair colour, improve hair darkness and delay hair greying).  A lot of attention is paid in Ayurveda to reduce excess pitta from building up on the scalp. This is because as we have mentioned, the brain and the eyes are both originators of heat and this heat tends to accumulate on hair and scalp. When this excess pitta energy builds up in the hair, it accelerates hair greying.

In Chemically damaged hair, there is already a build up of excess Pitta energy: so the use of Keshya Ranjana herbs helps bring down this imbalanced Pitta dosha.

The result: hair thinning and premature greying is slowed down.

Krya uses ayurevdic herbs that balance aggravated pitta in chemically damaged hair. Find out how you can heal chemically damaged hair.

We use Keshya Vardhana herbs to reduce teh vata aggravation in the hair, and imporve hair length, hair thickness and improve hair’s texture.

The result: Hair is glossier, softer, smoother and is able to support growth of long hair

Krya’s damage repair hair oil,also uses scalp detoxifying and clarifying herbs . These herbs stimulate blood circulation, help remove toxins and revitalise the hair system.

Krya damage repair hair oil: ingredients

In the current formulation of the Krya Damage repair hair oil, we used 25 different forest collected and organic herbs, fruits, vegetables and cold pressed oils to help nourish, detoxify and heal chemically damaged hair. We have listed the properties of a few of these herbs below.

Beetroot : detoxifies scalp, stimulates hair growth in chemically damaged hair

The beetroot (Beta vulgaris) is a healing organic vegetable that goes into the Krya Damage repair hair oil. The roots and leaves of Beetroot have been used in traditional medicine across the world from ancient times to treat a variety of disease.

Krya uses organic beetroots to detoxify the scalp in chemically damaged hair. Find out how you can heal chemically damaged hair.

Beetroots are a very rich source of betains (the red and yellow pigment group) and carotenoids. This combination of coloured pigments has good anti inflammatory and detoxifying effects when consumed internally and also on topical application. Biotin supplements are now currently a range and are being prescribed for severe hair loss. Beetroot is a good source of bio available biotin and folate, and pantothenic acid (vitamin b5).

Beetroots , when added to the Krya Damage repair hair oil, help detoxify the scalp and stimulate high quality hair growth.

Krya tip: Please include organic beetroots atleast twice a week into your diet to help detoxify the system internally and improve bio-available biotin in your body.

Ashwagandha: promotes thicker and fuller hair growth in chemically damaged hair

Ashwagandha is the Ginseng of Indian medicine. It is a famous rejuvenative, growth promoting and aphrodisiac herb. The herb is prescribed to build general immunity, for its anti aging (rasayana) effects and to build strength and well being in the body.

Krya uses Ashwagandha to improve hair quality and growth in chemically damaged hair. Find out how you can heal chemically damaged hair.

 

In the Krya Damage repair hair oil, Ashwagandha is used to detoxify the scalp and promote healthy growth of hair. The use of Ashwagandha helps promote thicker, fuller and faster hair growth in chemically damaged hair.

Brahmi: improves hair texture of chemically damaged hair

We have written many times about the healing power of this tiny, power-packed amazing Ayurvedic herb. Brahmi is an important herb to nourish the brain and is used in Ayurveda to help children’s brains develop well and also in elderly people to support the nervous system and to retard diseases like Alzheimer’s and Parkinson’s disease.

Krya uses Brahmi to improve the strength, health and gloss of chemically damaged hair. Find out how you can heal chemically damaged hair.

Brahmi is a critical hair care herb which we use in oils like the Krya harmony hair oil and the Krya kids hair oil. In both these oils, we use a high proportion of Brahmi to reduce stress and to support the function of the young, growing brain.

Brahmi is very useful in the Krya Damage repair hair oil to reduce high Vata, and to improve hair texture and growth.

 

Besides these 3 herbs, the Krya Damage repair hair oil uses the following herbs, vegetables, fruits and cold pressed oils:

Krya uses 25 ayurevdic herbs, fruits, vegetables and organic oils to formulate teh Krya Damage repair hair oil. Find out how you can heal chemically damaged hair.

 

  1. Guduchi (forest collected)
  2. Khadira (forest collected)
  3. Liquorice (forest collected)
  4. Manjishta (forest collected)
  5. Nutgrass (forest collected)
  6. Rosemary (organically grown)
  7. Ram Tulsi (organically grown)
  8. Amla (organically grown)
  9. Bottle gourd (organically grown)
  10. Banana Stem (organically grown)
  11. Bhringaraj (organically grown)
  12. Moringa (organically grown)
  13. Almond (organically grown)
  14. Hibiscus flower (organically grown)
  15. Henna (organically grown)
  16. Curry Leaf (organically grown)
  17. Castor Oil (cold pressed and organic)
  18. Kokum Butter (cold pressed and organic)
  19. Coconut Oil (cold pressed and organic)
  20. Sesame Oil (cold pressed and organic)
  21. Tamanu Oil (cold pressed and organic)
  22. Apricot Oil (cold pressed and organic)
  23. (cold pressed and organic)

To sum up: Heal Chemical damage naturally

Over processed hair and chemically damaged hair is hard to care for. You are told that you cannot fix or treat this hair and asked to invest in more and more damaging chemical treatments to mask the way your hair grows. Instead, Ayurveda provides a true holistic ray of hope. We hope this post gave you a glimpse of how Krya thinks about, researches and formulates products for you. we also hope this post inspired you to seek out solutions to help holistically heal chemically damaged hair.

If you too have chemically damaged hair and would like to try out our natural solutions, please explore the links given below. In case you have any queries on the same, please write to us.

Krya’s products to heal chemically damaged hair:

Krya Damage Repair hair mask to heal and revitalise over processed, chemically damaged hair

Krya’s safe , all natural hair colours to help you STOP further damage:

Krya's all natural , healing hair colour that colours and nourishes hair and scalp.

 

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Krya Formulation update Tuesdays: a better oil for dry, frizzy hair

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Reading Time: 9 minutes

Rupert Baxter, that quintessential suspicious secretary in PG Wodehouse’s Blanding’s Castle series was often said to be generally suspicious of everything and everyone. I often find myself invoking my inner Baxter when I read beauty product labels, especially those proclaiming to be completely natural.

1. blog post inner baxter

As you are aware, we make excellent Ayurvedic first principle based skin and hair oils at Krya. We have spoken about how Ayurvedic manufacturing has incorporated many sophisticated oil processing techniques that are designed to fractionate the oil, change its viscosity and improve its spreadability and dispersion of plant actives by the use of different manufacturing techniques.

 

None of the Ayurvedic manufacturing techniques use solvents, manufacturing chemicals or anything synthetic. Instead, a carefully thought through series of different methods like infusions, tinctures, over night soaking, the use of fats of different viscosity, slow cooking and stirring at different speeds, are all used to make emulsions, creams, pastes and herb infused oils.

While it is true that the Ayurvedic processing techniques cannot give an infinitely wide range of textures and formats, many standard formats like creams, pastes, and oils of varying viscosity can all be achieved.

2. ayurvedic oil manufacturing

 

The desperate attempt to appear natural : consumer product scams

There is rightfully a growing wave of concern around the toxic load on our skin, hair and bodies. This concern has lead to several small but significant changes in the consumer products industry like the visible reduction in the use of sulphate surfactants like SLS and SLeS, and the promised phasing out of ingredients like Triclosan.

But with these good developments have come in what may be best described as dubious developments. There is a rapid substitution being followed in the consumer product industry where consumer hated ingredients like SLS or SLeS are being replaced by another class of surfactants which are little known and have not yet been studied for their possible ill effects on the human body or the environment.

Along with ingredient substitution, another growing disturbing trend I am seeing is the mis-labelling of ingredients, making them appear much more natural than what they really are.

 

Does a chemical ingredient’s origin make it natural? – Light Liquid Paraffin in hair oils and moisturizing products

Here is an inherent contradiction all of us have to live with: we all appreciate the benefits of using oil, but many of us dislike the texture and experience of using oil.

This dislike has prompted consumer products companies to find ways of making an oil, which is inherently viscous and sticky, “non sticky” and like water. This has lead to the use of Liquid Paraffin derived “non sticky oils” in hair care where 60 – 90% of the content is light liquid paraffin, a derivative of petrolatum.

3. light liq paraffin

Light Liquid Paraffin is derived from Petrolatum which is indeed natural, but it is of mineral origin. LLP is odourless and colourless and is non sticky, so when it is used on skin and hair it feels light and dry. However, petrolatum and its derivatives are occlusive and comedogenic on the skin – so consistent use clogs the skin and scalp, and can trap dirt and dead cells in the skin triggering cystic acne.

Also unlike vegetable oils which are considered an “Anupana” or medium to transmit the nutrient active of the herbs infused in them, liquid paraffin does not penetrate the skin barrier. Therefore the properties of the herbs cannot be utilised by the body.

Therefore in Light Liquid Paraffin we have an ingredient of mineral origin which does not penetrate skin, can trap dirt and trigger acne, and which cannot transmit the plant actives into the body. Using products with this ingredient does not help our skin or scalp, however pleasant it may seem while using the product.

 11.acne

 

Does a chemical ingredient’s origin make it natural? – Caprylic Capric Triglycerides in moisturizing products

Another way of making oil less sticky is to not use a vegetable oil at in the base. Instead, many formulations are appearing where the ester of glycerol and fractionated coconut oil is used as a base, and herb extracts and essential oils are added to this base.

Caprylic Capric triglyceride is one such ingredient. This is a lab derived ester made by the esterification of glycerol and either coconut or palm oil derived fatty acids. Esters are present in nature and are responsible for many of the aromas we experience like the fragrance and flavour we get when we bite into a ripe apple. However, they are rarely present in an isolated form, and have to be extracted or synthesised in a lab.

The esterification process has been deliberately employed in the case of Caprylic Capric triglyceride. First the fatty acids of coconut or palm oil has to be isolated and extracted, and it is then subjected to the esterification reaction with glycerol to produce this chemical ingredient.

Caprylic capric triglyceride looks like oil, but it is completely non greasy and has a dry, almost powdery texture on skin. It is a favourite ingredient in many skin and hair care products and is specifically used for the way it feels on application.

But, here is something you should keep in mind: Caprylic Capric Triglyceride like many esters used in personal care products is NOT natural. It may be derived from molecules which have been extracted from coconut or palm oil. However, it is not a naturally occurring ingredient and is produced via a chemical reaction in a lab. More importantly, while coconut oil or even palm oil is good for skin and hair, having been used for millennia, their synthetic derivatives have never been tested extensively for use on human beings. We also do not know how these isolates compound or react when discharged into the atmosphere or even how stable they are.

From an Ayurvedic standpoint, no research has been done on whether this ester is a good Anupana, or even if it is absorbed into skin or if it disperses plant actives.

 

Making an Ayurvedic oil: and how we avoid the use of synthetics like Caprylic Capric Triglyceride

We have spoken often with pride about the Krya oil making process. We frequently speak about this because our oils are an integral part of our skin and hair care offerings. If there is one health giving practice that works immediately, it is the application of oil on your scalp and skin, whether it is to balance your doshas in your weekly abhyanga or to improve the quality and health of your hair.

There are 2 key differences between genuine Ayurvedic oils and synthetic oils with suspect ingredients like the 2 we have discussed above.

  1. Sneha Kalpana Paka (Oil cooking) technique: A genuine Ayurvedic oil is“paka” oil where the oil is “cooked” to incorporate various herb extracts, decoctions, juices and pastes. The cooking of the oil can take place either via direct heat or through solar heat.4. paka process
    1. When the oil is cooked on direct heat, the temperature is kept as low as possible, and the final oil mixture which contains different kinds of juices, extractions, tinctures and pastes) needs to be continuously and gently stored. The combination of heat, manual stirring and use of different kinds of herb extract methods (water based infusion, boiled decoction, paste), transfers the plants actives from the herbs into the oil.
    2. The solar heat process sis generally used when delicate herbs or flowers are infused into oil (like flower petals) where the use of high heat can alter the fragrance and plant actives. In solar cooking method, the oil is infused for atleast 1 mandala (48 days) in a vessel made out of a particular material (bronze, eeyam, etc). As the temperature increase in this method is not as high as direct heating, the oil has to be infused longer to extract the plant actives efficiently.
    3. The result of the Ayurvedic oil paka technique is an oil whose properties have been transformed by the process Even if we started with a relatively viscous oil like sesame or Coconut, the Paka process makes the oil lighter, more nutrient dense, alters its colour and aroma and makes it much easier for the skin / scalp to absorb both the oil and the herb actives.
  2. 5. result of paka processAn Ayurvedic oil is always made using a particular proportion of herb extracts, pastes and oils
    1. The oil is usually only 25 – 40% of the base volume of the mixture. The balance consists of fresh juices, herb decoctions and a paste made from the herbs.
    2. The oil is cooked until all the water in this solution evaporates leaving behind only the transformed oil and the solids from the herb paste. This usually takes anywhere between 5 – 9 hours of steady boiling.
    3. The final oil that is achieved is highly concentrated and potent containing the actives of all the herb extracts which were added into the oil mixture.

 

Making the Krya conditioning hair oil: a quick update

For Formulation Tuesday today, I have chosen to speak about skin and hair care oils and moisturizing products and to illustrate how genuine Ayurvedic oil is different in its manufacturing and ingredients in general.

As a part of this, I also wanted to share with you in brief, how we make the Krya conditioning hair oil – we made our newest batch this Saturday.

 

Who is this oil designed for?

The Krya conditioning oil is designed for vata prakriti skin and scalp. Vata prakriti skin and scalp tends to be inherently dry and usually drinks up or soaks up oil and moisture with gratitude. This kind of hair is usually inherently dry or frizzy. Winter or low humidity environments can cause dry dandruff or flaking in this kind of hair.

6.vata prakriti hair

If this hair is excessively shampooed or chemically treated, it tends to increase frizziness, split ends and hair breakage.

We have 2 kinds of hair oils for Vata prakriti hair. The first is the Krya conditioning hair oil. The second is the Krya harmony hair oil, which is to be used if you are mentally stressed, or work for long hours with uncertain timings and tight deadlines.

The Krya harmony hair oil works on soothing the brain and reliving vata caused by mental stress. The Krya conditioning hair oil works on physically balancing vata dosha in your scalp by using herbs and oils that nourish and nurture the scalp.

7.harmony hair oil

 

What goes into the Krya conditioning hair oil?

The Krya Conditioning hair oil is formulated using herbs that are very high on soothing a dry and irritated scalp and also help tame “frizzy” and vata aggravated hair. 16 nutrient dense herbs and 4 cold pressed and organic vegetable oils are used to make the Krya conditioning hair oil.

Herbs like Daucus carota (carrot), Lagenaria siceraria (Bottle Gourd), Yashtimadhu (Glycyrrhiza glabra), and Moringa oleifera (Moringa) are used to improve the texture and health of hair and improve its gloss and smoothness. Herbs like Acacia katechu (Khadira), Phyllanthus embellicus (Amla) and Eclipta alba (Bhringaraj) are used to soothe the scalp and improve its health and therefore improve hair growth.

8. krya codnitioning hair oil

Herbs like Withania somnifera (Ashwagandha), Murraya koenigii (Curry Leaf), Terminalia Chebulia (Haritaki) and Terminalia embelica (Vibhitaki) are used to promote hair growth, rejuvenate the scalp and hair and normalise the dosha balance so that the entire hair system becomes healthy.

Ayurveda ranks the extraction method of each herb and also assigns different nutritive values to Swarasa (fresh expelled juice), Kwathas (Infusions), Kashayas (decoction) and Kalpa (herb paste). Depending upon the bio actives in each herb, we are advised to follow the above 4 methods to extract a herb’s actives.

Every Krya oil has a high volume of potent plant actives going into the oil mixture. For example, in the Krya conditioning hair oil, 25% of the oil mixture is fresh Swarasa (cold pressed plant juice). Swarasas are considered very nutritious and of high potency in Ayurveda, and addition of this to an Ayurvedic oil greatly improves its efficacy. In the Krya conditioning hair oil, we use fresh Swarasa of Carrot, Bottle gourd, Amla and Bhringaraj, all grown organically.

9. potent bio active hair oil

Woody herbs and tubers have tightly bound actives within the plant. So it is recommended in Ayurveda to coarsely crush the herbs, soak them in water and then boil the mixture for a particular duration (either until water evaporates to ½ its volume or ¼ its volume). The Kashaya preparation and boiling process takes 12 hours (before the oil boiling starts). The process followed and the time taken both ensure we are able to successfully extract actives even from woody and hard herbs like Khadira, Ashwagandha and Liquorice to ensure that the final oil is rich in their actives.

10.kashaya extraction process

To sum up:

So there you have it: that is the Krya Tuesday formulation update for this week. We have discussed how we work on the Krya conditioning hair oil; a product that is much loved for its hair texture improving, scalp healing and hair growth improving properties. The Krya Conditioning hair oil is to be used along with the Krya Conditioning hair wash and the Krya conditioning hair mask. Together these 3 products form the Krya conditioning hair hydrating system.

 

Our ongoing Formulation Tuesday series is designed to give you a glimpse into how we think about, research and work on our product formulations. We believe that it is imperative for companies to be transparent both about their products and their manufacturing process. This, we believe, helps consumers make better choices for themselves and be more involved in what enters their home, is applied on themselves and is released into the soil and water.

 

Information helps us all make better choices. We hope you found this post both interesting and relevant to read.

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